Only One More Year???

Hi Hoe, Hi Hoe It's Off to Plant We Go...
With cuxtals full of corn, and big pointy stick.
Hi Hoe, Hi Hoe Hi Hoe Hi Hoe

The night before the planting there was no drinking, and Mr. Santiago burned several things of insense for the corn god, Yum K'aax. He explained that this is a sacred time, no drinking and you must sleep away from your wife for two weeks before and two weeks after or you will not have a good harvest. He said there is a ketchi word for it that translates roughly to, "you must sacrifice yourself for your land." The ladies woke up in the middle of the night (Ms Cecilia at 1:30, Ofelia at 2:00) to start killing chickens and roosters. I woke up at 3:30 and put on a jacket to join them in the cold dark night. The killing was done so I sat around as Cecilia, Saturnina, and Vira chopped the chickens up on banana leaves. I watched as each woman did their part and passed the chicken (or sections there of) to the next women, neat piles of feet, upper halfs and heads forming little growing mounds. Nina was in charge of stomachs and she would thwack all about the purple stomach muscle wall then slice one side open reach inside and carefully pull out the lining along with their last meal (corn and bugs) setting them in their appropriate piles. The women were teasing cecilia because she can't chop the chickens in a straight line.
Greg and the men started wandering out of the houses at around 4. Andres was in such a giddy mood. He started teasing and hitting Fermin who was trying to rest in the hammock (Fermin angerly snapping at him to, 'KANAB BWAI!! STOP PLAY!" (Stop boy, stop messing with me). He had a baseball hat that he fastened too small so it sat atop his head and he flitted all around the cocine saying 'Good morning' in a funny American accent. He spit out his coffee laughing when Fermin told the story of their last time planting.

Corn seeds in the hole, and the farmers planting.
The men piled in the truck and drove off to the farm waiting in the dark for the rest of the guys to show. Around 22 men came in all to plant. They get a free good meal and in turn they get their own planting done in mere hours too! They collected sticks and sharpened the ends to use as the planting stick. Finally they began. Planing in rows going over mountains and hills until they reached the other side of the farm. The men would thrust the stick in the ground, then reach in their cuxtal and grab 5 corn seeds tossing them all directly in the hole from their hip level. Greg sometimes got them in the hole... The planting was done by 8. Meanwhile more ladies came over as it got latter in the morning, everyone getting there by 6:30. At this time the caldo was boiling and we began to pat out tortillas. There were about 10 of us ladies so we all patted tortillas around two small round tables. We were all chatting and teasing, especially the village queen, when we got a call at 7:30 saying they were nearly finished and there were 22 men in total. Startled gasps were heard and all the ladies silently began patting double time! We only had one 3 gallon bucket of tortillas finished and we had two more to go! We cranked out tortillas like it was our job...which I guess it was. We finished the last chunk of masa just as the men arrived. All the men were served the best parts of the 7 chickens we slaughtered (and multiple pieces too) with pumpkin and ocra while the women were served big bowls with the breast bone, feet, and necks. I got the breast bone with the little heart attached. I ate all the meat but the heart, I felt weird about that, mainly because it was still attatched. The women realized they gave me what they usually eat and not the good meat and quickly asked if I wanted some more meaty parts. I kind of like how they momentarily forgot I was different and declined showing my appreciation by picking the bones clean like the other women. As I was putting my dishes away Vira asked Virginia what she would do if, 'x'keveen was your real sister-in-law' Virgina loudly said, "well I would love her very much!"
Afterwards, we washed the dishes, the men went home to sleep and we went to wash clothes.

Inside the hospital...this is what I stare at when I'm sick...or have a foot infection.


Volleyball...hosted, much to our surprise, right in our village. Sadly we lost...one weeks practice was just not enough.

Farewell pool extravaganza with Christine....
Christine, a good friend and great volunteer had to leave due to an illness in the family. We came together in Greg's village for a little picnic and pool fun to say goodbye. We jumped and played and gorged on cup cakes for a half a day. We even splurged on 3 dollar and 50 cent sodas to sip as we played catch phrase. It was a great way to spend Pan American Day (formerly known as; Columbus Day)

Baptist Birthday...Double Feature:


PCV and JVI Workshop:
A few youth PCVs had come to me asking about how to pull reading groups for those children reading very much below their grade. This turned into a workshop on how to do a diagnostic test, how to organize and use resutls, and how to structure reading intervention groups.

Amy laughing as we pose for the picture...

Biggest workshop yet!

One of the Youth PCVs Kristen, upon showing her teachers the diagnostic reading test material, was asked weather or not they could have a workshop for the whole school on how to administer and use the diagnostic reading test. Word spread and when she called me on Tuesday it turned into a three school, hour and a half workshop for that same Friday! I was happy to do it and it did not require too much additional work because I was able to reuse most of the material from my PCV workshop. I was quite nervous since there were 20 teachers from 3 schools (none that I'd worked in before). However, it went off very well and the teachers enjoyed practicing recording using the symbols from the three videos of students. I got a lot of great feedback and when I sent out a follow up email 3 teachers responded saying they had already begun testing their students and want a follow up workshop on intervention strategies!! YAY! The Ministry of Education Tech officer saw the plans when I was picking up the projector and he asked if I would be willing to give this and a follow up workshop at other schools. So it looks like Fridays will be my workshop/ travel days where I can go to other schools to model or present!

From a high, to a low low:

Two babies died in one week in our village. I don't really want to go into all of it because I will be honest this was the worst week of my entire Peace Corps experience and Greg was in Belmopan for a meeting so I had to go it alone. The first baby was a few weeks old to new parents, they buried him in their yard with a small service. The second baby was born early, and paralyzed after the mother fell. She (the baby) died a few days later. The father had to come back to go to work as soon as he saw if the baby would live or die so the mother was alone when she made the 8 hour bus ride from Belize city. She had to cary her baby in a styrofoam cooler on the rack above her head. The father came over early the next day to borrow a shovel to bury his daughter. She was laid to rest at the cemetery (the alcalde said in both cases it was up to the family where they wanted to bury the babies). It forced me to realize that until very recently (the last 50 years) babies died. Both my parents had siblings that died before 1, it was a sad fact of life. Now in the states we have the extreme luxury of not having to face this. And on the rare occasion this horrible thing happens it is devastating, parents are coddled for months, even a year because the very thought is so inconceivable...but it wasn't always so. Here most people still wait 2 or 3 weeks to name their baby (in case it dies) and yes they are very very sad but it is not the end of the world because, as it was all over the world, it is still a fact of life here. So when I look at pictures of all the healthy babies my friends and family are having I am reminded of what a privilege it is to count on, to EXPECT all babies to live. Be thankful because for a large part of the world, it is not a guarantee.

http://gizmodo.com/5634258/the-most-popular-phone-in-the-world

Speaking of third world countries, check out the most popular phone in the world...Not what you expected? It makes sense to us. You need a sturdy phone here (because there isn't a Nokia story to get it fixed or replaced...warranties, what's that?), a phone that can handle some rain from the rainy season, one that can last forever (if you don't have power in your village) and also must serve as light (for the same reason). Greg found this on his favorite site...gizmodo!

Greg: Computer Teacher

Greg has started personal computer classes with one of his teachers after-school until 5:30 most days. This teacher had never touched a computer and he had to start at the VERY beginning. He doesn't talk much and is working very hard trying to learn how to search on the web. A skill you have to teach.

Day in the life of a housewife:

I did not go to the religious teacher's retreat this time, it was very awkward last time so I stayed home and had a typical housewife day. I cleaned up from breakfast, swept and then headed out to do some visiting. I stopped and chatted with three of my friends. One for an hour and a half! She asked me a lot about america and hospitals and she told me how she had all three of her babies in the village two over from ours. She doesn't trust hospitals. I asked her all about it and we had a great time laughing at the strange ways of each other's cultures. At one point she asked me, "is it true they use lone spray in their cooking? No lard?" I explained that a lot use 'Pam' and oil too. She twisted up her face..."Why??" Well to stay healthy and thin because they have less fat. Her response, "but they're still fat Miss Keveen!" I had to laugh. After visiting I went to wash at the creek catching up on Ms Choco's life and a few of the high schoolers. It was such a great day and I had soooo much fun! Best choice ever!

1 year as volunteers:

41 came, 37 remain. We swore in as official volunteers October 22, 2009 looking out at two years of service. Now we have just 12 short months of that remaining. Time has sped up to warp speed and I am scrambling trying to accomplish everything I want to before I leave. Everyone else in my group has become busy it seems too, doing all kinds of good. Three volunteers from my group have grants for their communities. The village must come up with 40 percent of the cost and then the other 60 percent can come from people like you! You can donate if you follow the link to my friend's page, Erica. She also included a short piece about what each grant will be for. All of them are great ideas and greatly needed.

http://ericahowe.blogspot.com/

Tropical Storm Richard:

The whole country was glued to Love FM (the main radio station for all things news and Belize) as we heard the quick progression of the tropical storm to hurricane. All the villagers packed up their houses, and prepared for the worst. They stayed up all night listening to the radio not knowing if the storm would turn and hit them. All forecasts had it coming south and we were scared. Scared we would have nothing to return to. Luckily the storm turned at the last minute and the south was spared for the third time. We didn't get any wind and only felt a few drops of rain. Unfortunately the north was not as lucky with many loosing homes and dealing with flooding. An american even lost his life after getting attacked by a jaguar that escaped from the zoo during the storm. That being the one life lost due to Hurricane Richard. The country had a black out for a day and a half with some parts still without power. The cell service is very spotty now, and texts are delayed hours with service going in and out throughout the day. But overall, Belize was very lucky and for this little villager, I am ready for November 30...the end of the hurricane season.

A Day in the Life... Weekday edition

Kevina:

5:30 wake up, prepare bucket to wash (fill up soap powder and clorox)

5:45 walk to the creek (say hi to the Sha'an...old lady, and the Yatz)

6:30- Finish washing clothes and walk home, saying good morning to all the high schoolers waiting for the bus

6:35- Put on the water, and wake up Greg or if Greg is awake go and hang up clothes

6:45- Make breakfast with Greg (he cooks the onions, tomatoes, and eggs and I do the tortillas)

7:10- Bucket bathe

7:30-Iron uniform, sweep house, pack school bag

7:45- braid my hair, get dressed and relax with Greg

8:oo-Leave for school

8:00- First morning computer class

8:30- Second morning computer class

9:00 school starts, clean up from class, org lessons/ schedule for the day, sign in

9:30- Observe or model a math lesson

10:30- Break (meet with teachers)

10:45- Observe or model Language Arts lesson

12:00 close computer lab, walk home to make lunch (tortillas and jam, or pb and banana tortilla)

12:20 Finish lunch make tea and read until 12:55

1:00 School opens, observe or model a read aloud

1:15 Test reading levels with the MICO diagnostic reading test

2:30 Break...go over newest test results with teachers

2:45- Afternoon computer class with standard 5 and 6

3:30- School is out coach girls volleyball with Mr. Cal coaching the boys

5:00-Come home, take in clothes, sweep

5:30- Relax, talk to Greg

6:00- Start dinner, Ethan comes over to trade out another of our DVDs (every night for 3 weeks this has been going on, along with about 4 other kids)

6:30-Eat dinner (spaghetti, Greg's amazing pad Thai ramen, veggies and mac and cheese) and make extra tortilla dough for the next days breakfast and my lunch

7:00- Wash the dishes at the pipe and bathe

7:20- Lay in hammocks with Greg and talk about the day/ joke/ catch up on Peace Corps drama or watch a movie with the kids

8:00 Shut the doors and say goodnight to the Cohs

8:20 bed time

Greg:

5:30 wake up, say bye to kev and attempt to go back to sleep

6:00 Get out of bed, go to the bathroom and put water on to boil, play games on my ipod until kev comes back, 1st cup of coffee

6:45 Start breakfast (chopping veggies and making eggs)

7:10 Play ukulele or ipod games

8:00 say bye to kevina and go wash dishes in the shower and then bathe

8:20 get dressed and play ukulele

9:00 Leave for school on my bike

9:15 Arrive at school after the 3 mile ride...begin to sweat, turn on computers and internet hub, drink cold water

9:30 Assist principals with activity planning, computer assistance, school events

10:30 Break eat garnaches and choco bananas, sometimes let children check out books

10:45 Assist principals or teachers, Check email

*11:00 stop sweating from bike ride

12:00 Lunch with the other teachers at the cafeteria...free lunch from the 'feeding programme' rice and beans with stewed chicken, or gibnut, or armadillo and other Belizean dishes

12:35 open the computer lab for teachers, assist with internet questions

1:00 Assist a teacher bringing their class to the library

2:30 Break, get materials ready for computer class

2:45 computer class

3:30 school is out, supervise children getting on the bus until 4:00

4:05 close down computer lab, or stay until 7 if I am working it that week

4:15 ride 3 miles home or go play ukulele at Bill's until 5:30

4:30 Come home and bathe, visit with Santiago or Jr, catch kevina up on my day, text friends, go to the shop and get ideals and staples kev needs for dinner

6:30 Eat dinner

6:45 play ukulele, read, hammock time, or movie time until bed

8:00 Close up the house

8:20 Bed time

Hurricane in the House...Storms and 'Jump Ups'

Happy 3 years!

Who gets two more nights with AC and TV??? WE DO!!!

Tropical Storm Matthew (an anniversary present?):

We started our 3 year wedding anniversary a day early with our village's Independence Day parade, performances, and 'jump up' or dance. The next morning we packed up, texted the duty officer that we were heading out and began the trek to Placencia. When we arrived we received a call, from our zone warden, letting us know about TS Matthew and to be prepared to go on 'Alert.' Being in the bush we had no idea there was even a storm out there. We called and made sure it was okay if we at least stayed the night and then had a great evening of good food, and swimming under dark skies in the surprisingly warm carib sea. We paid 10 extra dollars for a TV and AC and had ourselves a great little vacation. Early the next morning we went from 'Standfast' to 'Consolidation' where we were told to go town because our official hurricane shelter at the capital was blocked by a flooded bridge.

Tropical storm flag in Placencia

We asked what if no buses pass due to the bridge, official answer...hitch. We made it to the hotel where we all milled around, gathered around for Peace Corps conference calls on speaker phone and watched the weather channel. Ofelia kept me posted on what was going on in the village and we were ready for the worst of it to hit Saturday with projected winds of 45 miles per hour. I was so nervous about ours and everyones houses in the village! Luckily the hour of impact came and went with only rain and some gusts of wind...the storm had died down and sped up so it just breezed past us! We cut hair, painted pictures, and watched Made marathons and did some catching up. Us villagers haven't had quality time together in a while and it was really really nice. When we got back there was only a little flooding and no damage to any ones' homes.

On a related note here are some students responses to a reading test question:

'What does the word 'flooded' mean?

-all rain around
-deep river
-the rain drop and the water come
-water start to pour
-splash
-puddles
-water is coming up
-when bottles come by
-water everywhere

Malaria Mondays:
Monday is malaria pill day. Possible side effects: hair loss, sensitivity to sun, upset stomach, blindness, and vivid dreams. Today we will delve into a few case studies of the latter side effect.

Case 1:
Kaylyssa and I are shopping in a huge warehouse (like what I imagine the Wal-mart outlet store would look like, poorly lit with Sam’s club height shelves). The first thing she wants is a green poka dotted change purse with a broken clip and some cheap school supplies inside. I look at the price tag…8,000 yen or 386 Belize. Frustrated I leave her to try to find a round claw hair clip that everyone uses here and pumice stone. I search up and down the aisles of bathroom throw rugs (laughing at the mental image of my turquoise shag throw rug in front of my cement latrine seat). I eventually give up and decide I need cool American clothes. Everything’s hideous; red riding pants with brown socks, boots with toes that curl up and around like elf shoes. I settle…a coat. I grab one quickly, a man is watching so I don’t want to linger. I shove my arms through and turn around with my arms sticking out to look at my poorly lit reflection on the 20 foot tall rough cut mirror hung from the rafters. It is a red coat with a big collar and 6 arm sleeves. I think to myself that I look like a spider, and besides, the other 4 arms are too small to get an arm in… –wake-

Steve getting his first 'trim'

Greg's tech station...fixing villagers computers

Case 2:
Greg and I are staying in Belmopan at the Wrights (the family I used to nanny for, who do not live in Belize). I want to drive home (I got excited in my dream that I could drive) but I have to go to the local Internet, restaurant, and outdoor washing center first. I walk through the restaurant/ Internet lounge to the back patio with spigots and washing rocks of varying heights. It is packed with cool kids, like the scene kids from the communist bar in Wilmington. It is lit with paper lanterns and feels like a party out of True Blood. I feel like I did at Pravda, an old lady in mom jeans and a sweater while everyone (male and female) wears tiny vests, skinny jeans, and asymmetrical haircuts. I find a small rock and start to wash my clothes. It is loud and people are joking and, I notice, not taking their washing seriously. I am almost finished and take my top off like at the creek but in horror I realize I don’t have my bathing suit on. No one notices so I pick up my wet clothes and throw on a moo moo shirt/dress to try to move to another rock in the back where no one will watch me. People start harassing me about where I learned to wash and I run out…leaving my wet clothes and run into Tink. I give a quick hug but I am stressed out so I keep pushing my way past Internet users and diners only to discover I’ve offended an older couple in the new group of PCV because I haven’t recognized them. And –wake-

The old host family and the newest member...Albert!

Case 3:
It is night time and we hear a rat. We flick on the flashlight and find the source of the noise…the manure pile that takes up a third of our house is moving at the bottom(we apparently think nothing of the pile of horse poo…I remember the feeling that this was a part of everyone’s house). Thinking it is a rat I throw a slipper at it. Much to our horror… not a rat but an Anna, our good friend Steve’s friend, shyly crawls out. She shamefully explains that since it has been so cold she was forced to sleep there for it was the only warmth in the world. /change scene/ I am with Jen and Blair and we are flitting between hotel rooms on a mission to find names. They are here in Belize with me and have not realized it as of yet. I somehow know for a fact both of them, at this very moment, are also back in the states and I have to make them realize this before something bad happens. Jen has a clip board and is jumping from bed to bed as I chase her around saying, “But you’re in Belize, I am Kevina.” Blair just lies there, indifferent or perhaps pondering the space time continuum she’s broken. –wake-

“Kim tao li xajonel xkeveen.” ‘Come, let’s go dance kevina.’-Grislmina Independence in the Village:
Monday, the day before the 21st the party started…in my yard. Since the chairman is my host brother were killing and cooking the 3 pigs right in my backyard. I squeezed past preschoolers, changed and came back out to my beans and chi Chiron with tortillas. Then I helped to pat tortillas…it is starting to become known that I can do this well and there were only a few comments about how ‘chabil’ and neat my tortillas were. Swollen heads are easy to catch here, as you’ve probably noticed. Anyway after the baking was finished but before the poch making could begin a few ladies came inside my house to visit. Quickly more came in, I offered all the stools and hammocks I had and then the rest just stood, they walked around the house saying things like:
“So this is where you sleep”
“So this is your bike”
“so this is where you bake”
I broke out my two photo albums (the 4 framed pictures on our tiny refrigerator were drawing a ridiculous crowd). Everyone gathered around, I got handed one of the newest infants and I proceeded to explain each picture. They stared at each picture looking at the details in the background, they were shocked no one bathes or washes at the pond in my in-laws neighborhood. As Angelica is teasing me about how I have to stay since it looks like I found a baby, much to the delight and giggles of the women AMY WALKS IN!!!!! I jump up, baby in arms and run to her making awkward movements to hug her but obviously the infant is in the way. The women kind of stare at my odd behavior, they are an always calm and patient group unlike what I just exhibited for them. Amy caught a ride with my other host brother who teaches at her school!!


The school queen in the pick up truck ready to parade.

Amy tried her hand and making poch, Andres made fun of her and said it was because she didn't have a man that her poch was no good. I worked on the queens scepters and sashes with Angelica and Christy's mom. We were asked to watch the liquid lard (used to fry the pig skin) in our house because too many kids were in the yard and their house...so a pot that I could bathe in, filled with boiling hot lard was carefully nestled in the corner of our house. The men turned over the roasting pork on the 15 foot long impromptu grill. The village council was throwing this Independence day party to thank the villagers for all their help and support on the September 10th party and village queen selection. The thank you consisted of 3 slaughtered pigs (and the subsequent roast pork caldo, my favorite), free juice and goody bag (chips, gum and sweets) for every child in the village, and a case of rum for free rum punch for all the men. They also bought 10 cases of beer and sold it at a loss at just 2.50 per pint.

We began early so Amy and I went to wash and bathe at the creek (since our shower was taken over for washing dishes and surrounded by people minding the caldo. We were supposed to start at 9:00 but really we just started the decorating of the trucks. Finally everything was blue, white, and reded out (they say it in that order instead of red, white, and blue...fyi) and the ceremonies began. There were a few more dances and presentations by the village queens then all three contestants from the village and the one school queen were escorted onto stage by four little boys in their confirmation suits. They bowed and gently locked elbows to assist the girls up the steps of the stage. This was followed by a parade with all the children in their uniforms and parents and villagers marching with blasting music behind a truck caring the queens on chairs in the back. Down to the field and back across to the water tower. It was a little hectic over the bridge but I managed to keep myself and the preschoolers from falling through it this time.

We came back and Amy and I passed out snacks, Greg was put to work at the bar and was dancing around with the other two guys handing out free rum punch to eager hands. After everyone headed right over to my house to get their free roast pork caldo and poch/tortillas.
We snuck in the house and chatted and took a little nap with the village surrounding us on all 4 walls. Greg got a break and came over to eat...they gave away all the rum punch in only a few hours. Around 2:30 we finally made it over to dance (with much convincing from Amy). Everyone was peeping from the outside at the 4 or 5 people dancing inside.

Predance peeping

We saw Arcinio the young shopkeeper and called him over to dance with Amy and the 4 of us danced in a corner to punta as the village watched on. After a few dances we went outside and rejoined the ranks of peeping. Ofelia leaned over and said she "like to see the way you dance keveen." It was really fun, laughing with the ladies as the men let loose flying around the timid queens and they kept tempo with their hips to the ridiculously fast beat of punta. We took a break to get ideals and talked at the shop for a while and found Mrs. Cecilia had wanted to dance but no one would. So Amy, Greg and I headed over with the ladies and after a quick request for Qumbia (spanish?) music we went in to dance. Mrs. Cecilia and I danced 'together' twirling our skirts from side to side (the exact dance for the ketchi harp music) staring blankly at each other. Greg flitted around enjoying himself dancing next to my teacher Luis as Amy flew around the dance floor polka-ing with Morpheus. We also got asked to dance by one of the quiet preschool moms when the traditional harp music came on. The three of us danced swinging our skirts (pants) from side to side staring at each other. Amy and I would throw in a little twirl cross over every once in a while. Everyone was hooting and seemed to like our little performance with Grisilmina.

We had such a fun day at 4:30 (when the party died right as I predicted) my bet was foiled because a van fall of people (and the queen) from the neighboring village piled out and immediately brought the party puntaing with avengance. Finally by 7:00 all lights were out, all villagers asleep...an all day bash finished.