Sunday, July 11, 2010

Bra Li, Steve and Mike Come to Belize


DAY ONE: We welcomed the boys from the viewing deck at the runway with my mummy. We took some pictures and then said our farewells to mummy. Off to the Belikin Brewery. It was a mere $30 BZE for a tour and then 45 minutes of all you can drink...including soda! Katie and
Adam joined us and we had a great time catching up. Steve also handed out gifts of fun dip and pack towels. The best part of the tour was the bottling line. It was like Mr. Rogers for big kids! While hanging out in the bar, we had all to ourselves, we decided to make a stop at the zoo before heading to the final destination of the day...Benque Viejo. We took the boys on their first ever bus ride, on an express.

Only to find out that Expresses up north go straight to Belmopan with out stopping so the driver took a chance and let us off. We had to stand up and wait while the bus was speeding along and then jump off while the bus was still rolling. Oh Belize. As soon as we got off we were bombarded by swarms of super mosquitoes. They laughed at our bug spray and followed us in swarms on our walk to the entrance. Once inside we promptly held snakes and then bee lined to JR. the jaguar. He did some tricks for us and mainly looked like "one cool cat" to quote Sam. We had to keep moving or the mosquitoes would begin their slaughter. They got to feed the tapir and hear the howler monkeys go off. We also had a good time watching the spider monkeys. We practically had the whole zoo to
ourselves too. We walked back out to the highway to wait for
another bus to Benque Viejo. We got there around 7 or 8 and as the bus stopped the taxi drivers started yelling and fluttering around the windows like bees on honey. We walked off into the feeding frenzy and after about 20 minutes, some kriol negotiation we managed to get a ride to Emily's house. Greg and I had only been to Benque once before during training and I was amazed at the different look and feel of the town. The main language is Spanish and it has buildings and a street layout of a real
hopping town or city. Lights sprinkled the valley and there were
huge luxurious houses along our walk to Rodger's. We settled in for the night. The boys took their first (and much welcomed) cold showers and we were out.
DAY TWO: We woke up early (they were 2 hours ahead, and we...well we're on village time) so we headed over to Emily's work, The
House of Culture and got a little tour. There was an art exhibit oh display; 29 years, 29 artists and we toured their museum which was the former jail. Greg and Anthony also got to dabble on
the marimba...like a big wooden xylophone. Off to Xunantunich!
Mike, Steve and Anthony were good luck for Iguanas because we saw around 10 medium sized ones and one HUGE one! I'd never seen so many. We came over on the ferry with a football team and other than them we had the place pretty much to ourselves. We ate our lunch of bus station chicken sandwiches and water on the top of the main temple looking out at Guatemala. It was very warm and we drank so much water. Steve found a hacky sack that said BECZE on it, the lady quietly took it away
after he showed us. Anthony cut open his water bottle to give a
dog and we left happy. After a delicious lunch in San Ignacio (where Anthony bought a fan for himself) we were off to Belmpoan. We had some local food of panadas, salbutas, and burritos at a tiny shack. During our meal it started to downpour and we moved tables and found ourselves jumping and, okay so I screamed, because the lightning was INSANE! There were two cell phone towers in the field behind us and they just took turns getting


struck with ear splitting aftermath. Greg managed to hail a taxi and we booked it back to the bus station to wait for the express (AC and reclining seats) down to Silver Creek. Our express bus was the one with a TV and we watched a bootleg Beyonce concert for 2 hours.
Arrival in the Village:
We arrived at the Silver Creek junction at around 8:30 and began the walk into the jungle, Steve even donned his headlamp. We warned them to walk away from the tall bush (as to avoid
snakes) and we soon heard a vehicle. Greg said that we should
catch a ride, "what with some stranger!" was Anthony's response. But since we live in a village of 500 rarely is there a stranger. It was Luis one of my teachers and his family in the truck. We all climbed in (the truck was packed already). As we're settling in saying hello we start to hear a squawking sound. It
Seems to be coming from Anthony. I look at him and say, "Um...I
think you're sitting on a chicken." To what Anthony replies, "What?!" with marked concern and confusion in his face. He looks to Luis's son who just nods and then jumps up. The squawking stops as the boy picks up and cradles the small chicken. While we're in the truck Angelica asks

which one is Greg's brother. "Oh but he is fatter than Greg." It's
begun. The truck comes to a halt and as we're unloading villagers begin running out to see these new people we've brought. We have to reintroduce them several times and there is much giggling of the women (I later found out they all thought Anthony was handsome). Flashlights were flickering from face to face as they all stood in a line staring at these new 'saq eb' (white people).
The boys had quite an adjustment to the latrines and the chickens... I wouldn't say it
was a very restful first night. DAY THREE: The boys mainly napped and ate while I washed their clothes at the creek and then washed the latrine. Finally we went on a little village walk.
We didn't visit anyone because it was so close to lunch and they
would have to feed us (all 5 of us) so we went back to the house. Not two minutes after arriving a girl comes selling tamales for a dollar. Lunch! We nap a little more and play with the kids then head off to do some visiting. Each house we were served a large glass or bowl of coffee and one house even gave us fresh bread.
The three houses were perfect because they showed the spectrum
of culture. From a mix of traditional and modern at the first house to Super traditional at the last house; we were ushered to the kitchen to sit with the man of the house and the women served us but did not speak. We wanted to visit more but the boys weren't used to the amount of
liquid you have to consume so we cut it short. That night I baked 15 tortillas. Margarita was helping me pat tortillas as usual but then Mrs. Cecilia sent in Lynette too because she knows what it's like having to cook for so many boys with no daughters! We had lots of fun, Lynette was making fun of me because my dough was sticky! DAY FOUR:The next morning we woke up at 4:45 to walk in the dark rain to the junction. By 8:00 we'd taken a bus and a boat and had arrived in Placencia.

We had a breakfast of Belizean hot dogs ( mayo, onions, ketchup and mustard) and headed out to the beach. It was cloudy and covered in trash from the storms of late and I found quite a lot of treasures. We ate fried chicken for lunch and then went down the way and found a beautiful beach and an other PCV, Miguel who told Anthony about a man who does fishing tours. We made spaghetti

in our cabana with the rest of the calaloo we bought from Santiago's brother. We did have a tragic accident...Anthony's pictures thus far were erased. There was much reminiscing and morning. DAY FIVE: Anthony went out fishing at 5:45 and we had a lazy morning then walked around. We also got a papaya shake to see if Steve and Mike had the gene that makes it taste like vomit...they don't. The sky began to get dark and Anthony calls saying he's coming
in early. Greg goes off to meet him. Steve, Mike and myself go to
get some more of those tasty hot dogs. It starts to downpour and lightning. This old man starts to talk to me. Soon he is telling me about his 16 yr-old son who was beat to death by baseball bats last week.
Yup. What do you say to that? We said our condolences then ran in the

storm back to the cabanas. Greg and Anthony appeared with a pig
tail bucket filled with 32 barracuda steaks! We texted Fermin and told him we're bringing dinner tonight! All the Coh's came over and as I and the women baked, fried fish and also prepared lancha (spicy fish in waha leaves) the boys went off to collect coconuts. We had a really fun time with the whole Coh family.
The kids were climbing in the rafters, Morpheus was dancing for us and the ladies were all gossiping around the fire hearth. I found out that all the villagers were talking about how cute Anthony was and that they even knew a woman who was not married that would leave tomorrow with him!


DAY SIX:
We went in town to watch the world cup finals and then stopped back at Bill and Beth's to play some guitar and show off their awesome house.
We had a great last night in the village playing with all the kids. Margarita couldn't understand a word Anthony said. Sheldon loved


Steve. I think he called him Mike or Steven though. Everyone liked Anthony's facial hair and when they talked about him they would clarify which one by pinching their chin. DAY SEVEN: Our final day with everyone was quite interesting. Steve had a reaction to Dramamine and was vomiting all morning.

Then we came in the rain to town to try to go on our fishing/snorkeling trip. I forgot my bag with my bathing suit, Steve was still feeling kind of sick, and the weather wasn't looking great. We had a pretty wonderful day despite all that though. The snorkeling was great we saw many a strange fish and got to snorkel as long as we wanted. The clouds helped us not to get sizzled and Anthony caught a large stick and some fish too. I got sick, again, surprise and so the boys went out with a bunch of our Peace Corps friends for their final dinner before their 6:00 bus up north and back home:(

The Visitor Surveys will come soon...it was a great trip with great people. Thanks for visiting Anthony (Bra Li AKA Brother in Law in Kriol) and Mike!!!!! (Steve is staying for another week!)

Monday, July 5, 2010

"But she's still young miss!" Mummy Visits Belize



Holding up mummy's welcome sign...after a practice run with the wrong plane
Flying in with Alex...Tropical Storm Alex
My mother said early on she didn't want to do all the 'touristy' stuff (she sees enough of that on the ship) so I planned an action packed itenerary in the village, in total we visited 25 different families some multiple times...in 8 days! Staying in the village was great for us too since it was the first week of holiday and we saw many families we haven't met with yet. We learned the tedious, back breaking work of cuxtal (the mayan bag) making, made tamales, ate gibnut and watched Silver Creek's football team obliterate Columbia's team 6-2. We went to two BBQs (one in my mom's honor) and visited until 8:40 at night. The preschoolers called her mummy, as in, "goodnight Kevina, goodnight Greg, goodnight MUMMY!!" We took a half day mini vacation to Greg's village where we swam in chlorinated water and sipped sodas poolside, then rode over to the school for some internet (Greg carring me on the bike like real Belizeans...except we wear helmets).


Here is how most of our visits went:
1. "So this is your mom."
2. "How old is your mom?"
3. "But she's still young!"(in response to question number 2)
4. "How long will she stay?"
5. "How does she like it in Belize?"
6. "Where is her husband?"

Quotes:
"Shoo." -Mummy trying to say 'good' in Ketchi...us (oos)
"Miss Coffee..." -Mummy's village name (Kathy) or also Kat-tea
"Ya! Da true because she is ur best mom in d world!" -Text from Letticia we got on the bus ride to Belize City after I told her I was sad to leave my mummy
"Greg, you hammock, me run!" Sheldon to Greg telling him to play with him


Time for the much awaited for VISITOR SURVEY!!

1. Dates of visit: June 26th-July 6th
2. Itinerary: All village all the time, with a trip to Belmopan to see the old host family and a night in Belize before the flight.
3. Weather: After Tropical Storm Alex on the day of my arrival, sunny and HOT!
4. Money spent: $293 BZE or $142.50 USD
5. Souvenirs taken back: Cumal, 2 tortilla cloths, sweat rags, cuxtal, 2 baskets, Uuk and po'ot (skirt and shirt) and cacao mix
6. Something that surprised you: How
much I absolutely fell in love with living in a thatch! AND I never saw any bugs (except some small ants) or rats in the house.
7. Something you learned: How to make flour tortillas from scratch and
how to wash clothes
in the creek.



8. Something you wish was in America: How the majority of moms stay home with their children.
9. Favorite part: Relaxing in the hammocks after lunch each day and swimming/ playing in the creek at the end of the day.





10. Hardest part: Seeing all the skinny, un-loved dogs.
11. Funny story: The first time Kevina took me to the creek to wash clothes. We finished washing and we were diving in to rinse off and when I came up I saw a SNAKE headed right for me! I grabbed onto Kevina screaming, "what is that!?" getting the attention of all the ladies and Kevina calmly swims over to it and replies, "it's a stick mom." much to everyone's delight.
12. Celebrity spotting: None
13. Other Peace Corps Volunteers you met: It seems like all of them. But Amy and Rion stand out because they came out to the village. Nate, Michelle and Mallory let us stay in their house, and Erica was the first Peace Corps Volunteer I saw (besides Greg and Kevina).
14. Illnesses or injuries: None in Silver Creek the entire time I was there. The last
couple of days in Belize I got a doctor fly
bite and my ankle swelled up.
15. Thoughts on your visit: The Toledo
District has some of the warmest, most welcoming people I've ever been exposed to. I was happy to see Kevina and Greg so accepted and loved in their community and to witness the great friendships with both Belizeans and their fellow Peace Corps Volunteers. I can truly rest at ease that they are well taken care of and happy in Belize.
16. Advice for the next visitor: Corn tortillas are supposed to be smaller than flour tortillas. Be prepared to buy TEN sweat rags (even though Kevina only let me buy 3).




Mother learned a lot while in the village...Lynette gave her a 99% her first time washing and she was a good sport about being laughed at for darting out of the water when a fish touched her leg. The lady on the left in the yellow shirt is the Alcalde's wife, she eagerly put on this, her wedding outfit, for us to see. She wore this very outfit when she was just 14 years old.



The ladies loved my mother, showering her with food and gifts. Far left is Mrs. Choc who gave my mom her cuxtal. The lady in blue is Ms. Florintina and she is showing us how to split the unspun yarn into two balls to then make cuxtals.







Making tortillas for mummy with the ladies and Greg and mom enjoying cacao uuk (drink)!!!







Ms. Tiul wanted to give us two huge pieces of ut'z ak (sugar cane) but we insisted one four foot stick would be plenty.
My mom even tried to 'touch' the cumal or put on the corn tortillas, they are tricky but she got her first one with a sprinkle of beginners luck.



Mommy brought all the kids in our host family a used storybook each. We would come home from the creek to see margarita carefully turning the page whispering the words to herself.
We also rode our bikes by the rice mill!







Mini vacation...2nd time in a pool in a year!














Just like riding side saddle.























































Thanks for a wonderful visit mom. You would make a great mayan woman. I, Greg, and all the villagers, will miss you until your next visit! Taquil aquib (take care of yourself).